[srtiels]

If you can post several clear pix's that would help. You can part the feathers on the crop and get several pix's. The easiest way to get a clear close up shot is to take the pix at 18" away, using the auto setting on the camera. when you download the pix crop it so that there is just a little surrounding area of the area you want us to look at.

To post pix's...when you reply, select the 'Go Advanced'...it will bring up another window...scroll down and Click on 'Manage Attachments' Select browse to find the pix's, and click on upload for each one. Once done close the Manage Attachments window, and finish and post your posting.

Here is an online Album of mine....does the baby look like any of these: http://s525.photobucket.com/albums/cc331/Mousebirds-and-more/Other%20birds/Babies%20in%20Trouble/

 

[srtiels]

Thank you for posting that link - I'm afraid I still have questions and would still love any responses people may have...thanks in advance!
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READ the article in the link. if there is anything in the article DO IT!

We can not help you if you do not know what to problem is, or post pix's to show what is going on. AND detail how much you are feeding the bird, how often, what thickness/consistency, allowing to empty prior to each feeding etc. MORE info please....

 

[srtiels]

The pix's help. Some MORE info though. In the last pix is that what was in the crop when pull (and how long was it filled like this) or is that formula in the crop. And are those red veins showing?

if the crop feels gassy, and very soft and fluidy, and there are veins apparent you may have sour crop. This crap has to be emptyied from the crop. Try and find a local breeder or someone to empty and flush the crop.

 

[srtiels]

Your chick has sour crop... It's also dehydrating. And since the viens are present there is high rish of the viens absorbing pathogens (yeast and bacteria) in the crop and it going systemic (throughout the body and organs)...and once this happens it is hard to turn this around.

Here is a link: You have two options: http://justcockatiels.weebly.com/sour-and-slow-crop-remedies.html do what is listed in the article OR go to a vet ASAP. The thing that has to bee done ASAP is th empty and flush the crop, and to also get this baby rehydrated.

 

[srtiels]

You do not have a ruptured air sac.

You have sour crop. At this stage this can be irreversable, and fatal, if aggressice actions are not taken.

A pipette is not good to use. Go to a pharmacy and in the baby section see if they have any syringes....either 5 or 10 cc/ml. Also while there pick up a baby digital thermometer. ANY fluids or formula that is put into the chick should be approx 104-106 degrees. ALWAYS feed where the food/fluid is fed into the birds right side of the throat. this lessens risks of aspiration.

make a hospital box. In an emergency a plan cardboard box works fine. Put 2-3" of bedding in the bottom of the box. Use a heating pad set on low...have part of the heating pad under the box and part going up the side (forming an L shape) Lightly wipe or mist just the inside walls of the box with water. Close the top flaps of the box, and let the inside warm up. Ideally you want an enviroment inside the box that feel warm and moist like a suana.

 

[srtiels]

Here are pictures of my little one at different stages so you can get an idea of his progress
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Your little one started out normally....what a cutie

One problem I see is the lack of a decent bedding. Were there other eggs, or babies and what happened if so. The main problem with what you used in the nest was that it would've been very hard for the chick to retain heat, etc. This is styress and with stress things go wrong. if the parents started plucking it after it was fully feathered, many times they will do this to get the chick to fledge, and it is also an indication that they want to start another clutch.

Also what was being fed to the parents to feed the chick? many times if alot of soft foods are given this can be the main contribuor to sour crop in the nest.

 

[srtiels]

A few things for your shopping list. Get the spices to make the remedy, they do work. Get plain or original Alka Seltzer. And plain unflavored store band yogurt.

Do you have a Whole Foods or healthfood store nearby? If so if you can get some Capryl (caprlic acid) capsules these will be useful as a natural form of an antifungal to treat yeast. if they don't have the Capryl, then ask id they have Pau 'd Arco extract. This is also great for yeast and or a mild bacteria. Just 1-2 drops per feeding for about a week. The capryl is 1/4 capsule per feeding for a week.

 

[srtiels]

If you need any verbal help you can click on my Mousebird website link in my signature. Go to the contacts page and it has my phone #. Feel free to phone anytime....I can talk you through several of the things you need to do.

 

[srtiels]

That is great you got the crop emptied

The seeds almost look like seseme seeds...do you give bread with them on the crust? Or if you also give eggfood sometimes it will have some small seeds in it.

As to an entirely pelleted diet, the parents need a varied diet of seed, pellets, green/veggies when they have babies. I have had pellets be a cause of sour crop, especially if the surrounding environment is to warm.

 

[srtiels]

It was nice talking with you. It sounds like you are on top of the crop problem

OK...if you have a regular vet, you may be able to ask him to write a script for the catherter tubing. A regular vet would also have the supplies to do sub-Q fluids. He can also run a gram stain to see if there is any budding yeast or excessive bacteria in the droppings. Even if not an avian vet a regular vet can do cultures, providing where he sends his labs to also does avians/cockatiels. If antifungals (such as Nystatin) or antibiotics (such as Baytril) are needed these can be from your regular vet. Most vets have a formulary book as to calculating dosages.

I can't wait to see your little one feathered out...it looks like it is going to be a real beauty.

 

[srtiels]

Sounds good...especially the begging. If the little one was real bad it would be lethargic and not wanting to beg or eat. If begging and active it sounds like you caught the problem in time. Now for the next few days allow to fully empty between feedings. With the few cc's you'll be feeding it should be emptying approx every 4-6 hours. If after this time the baby is not completely empty you may have to empty the crop again. Keep up the good work

 

[srtiels]

OK...is the baby pooping? If it is pooping then it is digesting some of the formula. If not or only a little and the crop is slow, you might ask the vet for an anti-fungal and antibiotic, AND also show you how to do Sub-Q fluids at home. If the baby is going into GI or crop stasis the Sub-Q fluids is about the only way to get things moving, and some fluids in nutrients into it. AND, if crop movement is slow, and the vet puts the baby on antibiotics, it will not get the benefits from oral antibiotics, so the way to go is injectable. It may take several days of Sub-Q fluids to get things moving.

 

[srtiels]

The consistency of the solid part of the poop looks good. the urates (white part) are not as good and the baby will benefit from Sub-Q hydration.

You have a beautiful golden pearl...which can be either sex.

OK...if your dog vet will do the Sub-Q, but is not sure of the sites here is a pix: http://s525.photobucket.com/albums/cc331/Mousebirds-and-more/Other%20birds/Babies%20in%20Trouble/?action=view&current=injection-site-for-fluids.jpg The Sub-Q fluids should be warm. The easiest way to accomplish this is to draw the solution into a syringe with a 25ga. needle. Cap the syringe and place it in a warm cup of water to warm the solution.

The injection site is the loose area of skin between the knee and the hip. ALWAYS inject the fluid under the skin, aiming towards the tail end of the bird. You do not want to inject towards the abdomen or the direction to the front of the bird. the reason why is that on the sides of the abdomen are air sacs (which can't be seen) and if the injected solution is injected into them the bird will drown instantly.

Another injection site is on the center of the back, under the skin, up near the shoulders.

1-2Ccc at each site. As the fluid is injected you will see a water bubble form under the skin. As the body absorbs this into the system it will go down. Once the area is flat then you can inject again.

 

[srtiels]

Here are some helpful pix's if you can get the catheters. And also if you opt for injectable antibiotics how to read dosages and where to inject.

 

[srtiels]

Good luck. Print out any pix's to take if needed. OH...since the vet will be handling the baby you would prefer that it is almost empty. This way food in the crop doesn't accidently get smished up the neck while handling, which can asporate the chick. When the vet handles the bird (if unfamiliar with babies with crops) point out to keep any pressure from the hands near the crop.

 

[srtiels]

Oh...I was thinking of a few helpful things since you will be handfeeding.

Rule #1 is to never save and reuse mixed formula.

How you can overcome mixing too much each feeding is to know how much you will be feeding...such as using the scales to calculate 10% of body weight. If (example only) you will be feeding 5cc of formula, first draw/pull up 5cc of fluid into your syringe. Warm/heat the water, and mix in the powdered formula, and any meds, etc.

Check the temp of the formula for 104-106 degrees. With a small amount of formula it can cool down quickly so place the mixed container cup (I like to use shot glasses for single babies) in a pan of hot water.

In pre-measuring the water, this helps to eliminate excess waste of mixed formula.

 

[srtiels]

and she sold me different powdered formula with another supplemental powder to add to it for vitamins and to help with hydration.
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I glad the vet was able to help, and sorry the shop owner was cranky.

OK...the Kaytee formula was fine. As to what she sold you I think it may have been more to make a sale. AND, PLEASE do not add the vitamin supplements. All brands of formula contain vitamins and adding more can cause then to build up in the body to create a toxicity. Also do not add supplements like protein or protein powders. When there is suspected dehydrated it could affect renal/kidney function and contribute to kidney failure.

You can draw out and use (mix 50/50 with water) some of the Sub-Q fluid you got from the vet to use as the water for mixing the formula.

Shame on Enda though...you are doing a GREAT job What you are faced with is the worst that can happen with a baby and you have kept it alive so far. if you had not acted as fast as you have it may have been close to death or died by now.

Keep up the good work

 

[srtiels]

Oh...one other thought. It is not good to switch formulas once you start handfeeding...BUT if you do, what you do is mix up 50/50 of each brand together, and then with each feeding reduce the ratio of the former formula until you are using the new formula over several feeding. the bag might have some conversion/container info on it.