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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all my mane is craig I'm new to this forum I hope i'm in the correct area

My wife and I have have tried giving breeding a try and all was going well till now. long story short mum laid eggs eggs hatched about 6-7 days ago now it seems mum is neglecting young I have lost 2 young so far and other 2 are not looking very strong we have just picked up some granivore rearing mix to try hand feeding but we really are in the dark as to what to do:confused: I feel the young would be to cold out in there nesting box without parents do we remove them and put them in a warmer spot inside any advise would be hugely appreciated

cheers craig
 

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I would bring them inside and start hand rearing them. :) The easiest way to hand feed is with a bent spoon (you can buy these or maul a teaspoon yourself), when you do this the chicks can eat at their own speed and the chance of aspirating is less (that's when good goes down the trachea instead of the oesophagus). Mix the handrearing mix according to the packet directions and check the temperature is right (should give you this info on the box/bag also, you can use a lolly thermometer to test it).

As to keeping them warm, see if you can pick up a critter keeper (those plastic fish tanks with lids) cheap from a dollar store somewhere and a heat pad under that will keep them warm. Line the bottom with some paper towels and make sure part of the tank is off the heat pad so they can move if they get too hot. Good luck!! Let us know how you get on. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info just for my nolledge what should there habbits be at this age ie. when feeding should they have there beeks open because this pair hardly even open mouth to feed and how stable on feet should they be?

cheers craig
 

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It can be tough to get them started on a spoon and if they are not warm enough they can't digest their food. They can be pretty unsteady on their feet. I swear some can't seem to support their own weight after they are fed. The formula for ones so young should be kind of thin too and if the formula you bought doesn't have lactobacillus you should be adding it. It is a beneficial bacteria that needs to be present in their crops to digest food. They normally get that from being parent fed. Lactobacillus is sold under a couple of trade names that I know of Ornabac and Benebac. They need warmth (90 degrees), thin formula, and about 6 feedings a day. I use a Kritter keeper with a heating pad set on 1 or 2 as Bea described. It works well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your help I'll be keeping you posted on progress and if I can figure it out i'll post pics as well
 

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if you go to breeding there is a sticky that me and atvchick95 made it tells you how to setup a brooder and what you need for hand feeding and there is a link that shows you how to hand feed
 

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I always use a spoon to feed as it allows the baby to take the food at it's own rate and lowers the risk of getting food into their lungs. I feed them 'till they won't take anymore. You can't do more than that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well my wife fed then with a spoon and they took more of it and it seemed to have gone down easier then a syringe. at the moment we have them in a box with a hand towel and paper towel on top of a hot water bottle and a heater in the bathroom. (we dont have a lot of rooms and its the only place to keep our children and cats away) will this do or should we really try getting a heating mat???
 

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You should be able to get a heat pad pretty cheap. I got mine for $15 from an exotics pet shop, perhaps you have something like that in your area? It's definitely easier in the long run, especially overnight. And the temperature won't fluctuate as much as it will with a water bottle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
thank you for that info, we will go looking tomorrow. they seem to be eating better and moving a little more since we got more heat in there. how do you no when they have had enough to eat. i just fed them and for the first time they wouldnt stop. the bigger one had 1ml and the sml one had .8ml but i stopped them at that, is this too much or too little???
 

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That sounds about right, you can go until they have a big bulging crop. :) You should be able to easily see it getting larger as you feed them. It should be nice and full and squishy, but never hard.
 

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if you look at the picture i just posted here you can see how full the crop isi would not let it be bigger then that and yes i agree with bea
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
A sad day indeed both of the babies died yesturday we did every thing we new about to try and raise these chicks but maybe it was to late when we got them out of nesting box as I mentioned they were about 6 days old and the mum had left them from hatching I'm hoping this was most the problem and not something we did:( This is not the end for us tring to breed but I think we will gather a bit more info and continue on this forum you all have been a huge help first thing i'll need to find out is what conditions in the nesting cage do the birds like my cage for nesting is 600mmhigh by600mm wide by 900mm deep that is off the side of the main cage these cages are all home made and needless to say i'm not a carpenter:eek: I'll move over to a different section of forum for anymore info... oh and one more thing the nesting bow is 300mm square with a 2 1/4 inch hole for entry and little platform for entry aswell
 

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from what i been told if there is something wrong with the chicks the parents do aboandome them don,t give up hope i no how it feels i pulled 3 chick age in days are 7,5,3 only one made it i would say give the parents a rest before trying again one question how old are the parents and are they related if she is under 18 months old that could be the reason but we really won,t no
 

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I'm sorry to hear that you lost the chicks. :( At least now you have the supplies on hand if you ever need them again.
 

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The only thing I could add is that the nest box hole is typically 3 to 3 1/2 inches. Is this the box they laid the eggs in?
 

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yes thats the box they were in we were going to take them out and try again in novenber

cheers craig
Make sure you have some way of keeping the breeding cages cool if you're breeding during the summer. I've had serious problems with parents and babies over heating because of how stuffy the nest box gets. There was one summer where i had some budgies breeding and i had to keep ice packs on top of the nest boxes and fans aimed at the cages, the babies still kept getting overheated. :eek:

It could be worth waiting till the hottest part of summer is over before trying again. :D
 
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